For many years and in many different cultures jewelry has been worn as adornment, as an indication of political affiliation and symbols of religious and social persuasion.

Curiously, from their locations at opposite ends of the Aegean, Trojan and Cretan artisans of the Minoan period, created very similar styles of earrings, bracelets, and necklaces -- a style which persisted from about 2500 BC into the beginning of the Classical period of Greek art (479323 BC).

Their jewelry creations typically consisted of coils and chains of linked and plaited, interwoven strands, like braiding wire, and thin foil which was formed into petals and rosettes. Many of these pieces were stamped and enameled. Gold granulation (surfaces are with clusters created with tiny grains of gold) and filigree (delicate and intricate ornamental work made from gold, silver, or other fine twisted wire) were also common. It was not unusual to find stone inlay. The motifs which were most common were spirals and patterns drawn from nature (birds, fish and butterflies). Fortunately, some of the jewelry found at archeological sites in both Mycenae and Crete (Kríti) are now available for viewing at the National Museum in Athens, Greece. The jewelry includes many perforated, small, gold disks, which it is presumed were attached to clothing. The collection also includes several gold diadems (crowns) made of long oval plates covered with repoussé (shaped or ornamented with patterns in relief made by hammering or pressing on the reverse side) rosettes.

Egyptian and Assyrian influence was significant on ancient Greek, Etruscan and other Italian jewelry that was designed and executed in the period between 700 and 500 BC. Phoenician merchants brought examples of jewelry styles with them when they traveled the globe. Pieces which were either embossed or stamped were the basic element in the work. Granulation (decoration of surfaces with clusters created of tiny grains of gold) continued to be used. The technique was refined and brought to extraordinary level of perfection by Etruscan artisans. One extraordinary example of the period (7th century BC) is a Greek necklace from Rhodes which can be seen at the British Museum in London, England.

The Classical period of Greek art brought a decline in the use of granulation and a resurgence in the use of enamel and filigree. The pieces of jewelry were both delicate and refined. They included plaited (braided) necklaces made in gold and decorated with flowers and tassels. Hoop earrings with filigree disks and rosettes were also popular.

In the Hellenistic period (32331 BC), motifs included winged victories, cupids, and doves. A significant new style appeared in the form of large colored stones, especially garnets, used to accent the center of designs. The Romans then elaborated on this new theme by using a variety of stones, set in rows bordered with pearls. Enameling was common in Rome and the art of cameo cutting was being perfected to a level unreached theretofore. Cameos were being fashioned in great quantities and many were much larger in size than ever before. A new form of jewelry appeared on the fashion scene. The fibula, a brooch that looked much like a safety pin was very much in style. Rings too were quite popular, so much so that at the height of the empire’s glory it was not uncommon for a ring to be worn on every finger. Ornaments made of amber, giving an exotic flavor, were very popular as well. As the classical style died out in the beginning of the 3rd century AD, necklaces and bracelets were formed of gold coins and set in elaborate mountings of arcaded patterns.

Jewelry always has had a place of importance in Greece and Rome and artisans in these cultures continuously perfected and refined their art forms. The examples of jewelry which remains from those ancient periods are a testament to the craft of those jewelry makers. The styles and techniques they used have continued to be used today.